Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
